True Baby Carrots!

Botanical Interests' Daucus carota var sativas!  :~)

Here are a few of the first of my 'Little Finger' carrots, started from seed back in late April.  My first ever homegrown carrots!  Their seeds are miniscule and like to be soaked in water for 12 hours before planting.  Sowing the seeds--which aren't much bigger than one of these dashes--is made easier by the fact that four or so are planted per inch in rows roughly a foot apart.  Thinning occured once their greens were a good inch high.  I pulled a few around day 50, but the ones above were pulled on day 60 (seed packet states 57 days).

From all that I've read on the subject, carrots like deep soil mixed with lots of compost and peat.  So I mixed LOTS of compost and peat deep into the soil (7-8" down), achieving (I think) a 50/50 mix-to-soil ratio overall.  I've read that the small forking as seen on a couple carrots in the picture above could be due to old roots or small stones in the soil.  That is, as the roots of the growing carrots extend down into the soil, they are easily inhibited by the smallest of obstacles.  But the forking could also be due to excess nitrogen (N), which I may have unintentionally contributed to (more about that in a bit).  Regardless, these "true" baby carrots, which average 3-1/2" long, are sweet and tender.  While they are purported to be perfect for pickling/canning, they'll never get that far between our snacking on them, eating them in salads, and treating our dog!  Read on for info on companion planting and nitrogen info!
 In addition to planting them with companion plants (rosemary, marigolds, chives and sage purportedly deter a variety of unwanted soil pests), I started them off with a good dose of fish and seaweed emulsion when I watered them in.  I used the same emulsion every 2-3 weeks, and I was fairly consistent with watering them - by hose, I'm afraid.  We've had rain here and there, but not enough to really fill our rain barrels, unfortunately, and carrots are heavy drinkers.

French marigolds and rosemary intermingled with Little Finger carrot greens

So, about the forking and excess N.  First, this word of wisdom: have your soil tested (something I need to do, as it has been a few years since the last test).  The carrot seed company suggested fertilizing with 5-10-5 (for insight on soil testing, fertilizer analyses, and how to read major plant nutrient numbers, try this link from the UNH Cooperative Extension.)  The first source of N that my carrots were provided came from the soil they were planted in: I grew bush beans in this same plot last year, a superb legume for converting atmospheric nitrogen (N2) into a form that plants can uptake from the soil.  The second source of N was provided by our lovely compost.  Third, the fish/seaweed emulsion I used also has its own fair share of N.  So, as much as I definitely had small stones and root debris in this soil, I can't rule out excess N in the soil with this hat-trick of nutrients.  Looks like I'll just have to get that soil tested!
Note: N fixation and the Nitrogen cycle can be pretty confusing, but all you need is a good explanation.  Try this link from the Kimball's Biology pages, a source used in many university introductory plant bio courses.

Don't forget to lop your greens off soon after harvesting!  If left on while storing, the greens will sap the water from the roots, leaving you with limp carrots!  Toss those greens right into your compost pile, but remember that your carbon:nitrogen ratio needs to be 30:1 (browns like leaf litter or shredded paper have higher carbon %'s, while fresh greens have higher nitrogen %'s)!

If you're interested in further reading on composting, I've compiled some great info over the years from various sources and incorporated it into an old article written by the folks at Organic Gardening.com.  I've also provided a link within the article to some excellent info regarding carbon:nitrogen ratios.  Don't let yourself get overwhelmed by the math explanation.  Read through to the end of that link's article and you'll find a very good example of how to equate your own compost recipe (not that you have to go through this weighing/calculating process.  I don't, I just rely on look, smell and feel!):

Tips on Composting

WHY COMPOST AT ALL?

Along with fuel efficiency, water conservation, and reduction in meat consumption, home composting is one of the most environmentally beneficial activities of modern society. Yard and food wastes make up approximately 30% of the waste stream in the US. Not only does composting successfully divert a significant portion of your family's waste stream from the landfill and water treatment facilities, it is a natural method of recycling organic materials into valuable humus. Finished compost is nutritious enough to use as a soil amendment, buffering the pH and helping to retain water in the soil. It can cool the soil's surface, and help mitigate erosion. Why buy topsoil when you create your own endless supply? Home composting also serves as an invaluable educational tool, teaching youngsters about conservation, the cycle of life, and inter-connectedness of the natural world. If it gets your child thinking about science or biology, or voluntarily participating in gardening and yard work, isn't it well worth the effort?


HOW TO COMPOST

Like death and taxes, composting happens - whether we want it to or not. Though all organic matter will eventually decompose (despite neglect), the trick is to get your pile to decompose as fast as you can fill it. The rate at which breakdown occurs depends on several factors: oxygenation, temperature, water content, particulate surface area, and the carbon:nitrogen ratio (see chart below). Like painting, composting is more art than a rigid science, and can at times require a bit of finesse and skill. However, with patience and a little practice, you can have ready-to-use humus for your garden in 6-8 weeks.

Factors Affecting Rate

Oxygenation

Oxygen is required for respiration by all aerobic inhabitants within the pile. Adequate ventilation, wind, convention currents and manual turning or mixing will help keep the anaerobic critters from producing foul odors.

Temperature

The optimum temperature for fast decomposition is between 90 and 135 degrees F. Whether it is due to cold climate or insufficient bacterial activity, when the temperature falls below this, decomposition will slow, but not cease. To keep temperatures elevated, try an insulation jacket or better placement for maximizing radiant solar heat. Also choose black colored bins in cooler climate zones.

Water Content

An efficient composter needs to have a moisture content around 50% (feels like a damp towel). If it is too dry, decomposition will slow down considerably, while overly wet piles can smell. Keep pile covered during heavy rains, and add rainwater when dry spells occur (chlorine in municipal water can kill the organisms in your living system).

Surface Area

Maximize this by shredding and chipping all clippings and waste into small pieces. The more area you expose to microorganisms, the larger the dinner table, and the faster the decomposition.

Carbon:Nitrogen Ratio

Organic materials rich in nitrogen are referred to as GREENS (fresh veggie scraps), while the others can be lumped together as BROWNS (hay, twigs, dried leaves). Always remember to layer, layer, and layer. If an ammonia smell is detected, ease up on the nitrogen-rich greens.

For beneficial ratios of how much to add of each, read this brief article.


WHAT TO COMPOST

So long as they have a high surface to volume ratio, most plant materials from your garden will work beautifully in your pile. You want to use common sense when adding larger items like sequoia branches or giant rubber tree leaves - shred them or chip them up into smaller pieces - the more surface area available to you resident critters, the faster the decomposition process. Plant-food scraps from the kitchen, shredded cardboard boxes, and sawdust from untreated wood will all contribute nicely to your organic potpourri, just don't put too much of any one thing in - it can throw off the N-P-K balance, not to mention the pH. Always remember to throw in a handful of good garden soil to inoculate the new pile with living organisms. A few earthworms and rollie-pollies are a nice addition, too. Though it is not required, many individuals add compost starters and accelerators to help their pile along --- this is fine, just avoid the synthetic additives and seek out natural and organic sources with minimal packaging.


From the Yard:

Grass clippings, leaves, shrub and tree waste, sawdust and wood chips, old potting soil

From the Kitchen:

Coffee grounds, tea bags, veggie and fruit scraps, corn husks, unbleached paper towels, avocado skins


See more ingredient ‘do’s & don’ts’ at Organic Gardening



WHAT NOT TO COMPOST

Though all organic matter can be broken down naturally, some materials are just not suitable for the home compost pile. First and foremost, no human or pet excrement should be added to the bins. Feces can harbor harmful bacteria, and there is no guarantee that the high temperatures of your pile will successfully kill them. Second, stay away from greasy foods, dairy products, meat scraps and bones. Not only can their decomposition result in 'colorful' aromas, they can attract rodents. Unless you are a seasoned composter, it is best to avoid them completely. Natural chemicals in citrus peels, eucalyptus leaves, and pine needles can actually slow down your compost pile - avoid mixing them into your artistic masterpiece. Ashes from your fireplace are basically worthless --- they are already broken down as much as possible (remember the heat and flames), and therefore have little potential energy to offer the microorganisms in your pile. Beside, ash can drastically alter the pH of the soil. If your prize tomatoes experienced their worst blight on record, you probably want to keep their diseased leaves and stems out of the pile, especially if the finished compost will be returning to your vegetable garden. Why propagate pestilence? Rocks, plastic and styrofoam are not going to do much for your creation either, so keep them out.


WHAT IS THE BEST COMPOSTER FOR ME?

Purchasing a compost bin is as much a personal preference choice as it is a functional choice. While monetary considerations should always be taken into account, also think about such issues as visibility, aesthetics and capacity. Each compost bin on this site will have a Specification Grid highlighting important features and benefits. Some bins are more educational than others, a few require a bit more maintenance, while several allow participation by the whole family. Some are attractive, others ugly. A few are actually fun, while a couple are virtually problem-free.


THERE ARE CRITTERS IN MY BIN!

After your compost pile is established (1-4 weeks) you will begin seeing various and sundry 'critters' throughout the pile's contents. These little helpers, which usually migrate from other parts of the garden or the soil beneath the pile, can range from arthropods and flying insects to microorganisms like bacteria and fungi. This soil-borne community is critical to the decomposition process! Do not attempt to eradicate or remove these beneficial creatures. Do not use any chemicals or sprays that would normally harm such animals and fungi. If possible, use rainwater from your rain barrel to moisten the pile, as chlorinated municipal water sources can slow down the natural rate of breakdown.


WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?

Occasionally, a compost pile's performance is less than optimal. That's okay, even the experts have problems from time to time. Make sure that your pile has sufficient warmth for high levels of bacterial activity. Most bins are made from black recycled plastic so that they can absorb radiant heat from the sun. Colder climates might require insulation jackets be placed around the pile. Moisture is another factor that can cause problems. Without enough water, the pile remains too dry and decomposition can slow down considerably. But remember not to over water, as that may cause the organic material to rot anaerobically (without oxygen), which may lead to odoriferous fumes. A well drained, well-moistened compost pile with moderately elevated temperatures and the proper C:N mix seems to work best.


WHAT ABOUT RODENTS?

Like cockroaches and pigeons, rodents will always be a part of human society. While few bins are 100% rodent proof, there are a few steps you can take to avoid rodent entry into your sacred pile of humus. First, make sure the bottom lip of the bin is buried under the soil's surface (rodents usually enter through openings in the bottom). Second, keep all lids and doors (if your bin has them) securely fastened and/or locked (some thieves like raccoons, can easily work latches). If you have a known rodent problem, select bins that do not have large openings between the slats. Moreover, when discarding your food scraps, bury them in the compost pile's center, so that access is difficult. To prevent entry from below, purchase a few yards of chicken coop wire with a small mesh diameter, then line the bottom of the bin or bury the wire a few inches below the surface. If at all possible, avoid using poisons as a means of control. Instead, try predator urine, used kitty litter, hot pepper wax, or peppermint extract. As a last resort, purchase a few humane rodent traps that allow for release elsewhere.

Happy composting!