Monday, March 29, 2010

Cauliflower Gratin and Immersion Blenders

When I came across this gorgeous, milky white, organic cauli the other day, I just knew I had to turn it into something to die for.  I mean, really, how often does cauliflower take center stage?  I remembered seeing a gratin recipe in Thomas Keller's book, Bouchon, not too long ago, so cauliflower gratin ("gratin de chou-fleur!") it was!


The best part of the recipe (IMHO) is the fact that nearly every speck of the cauli is used--even those teeny, tiny crumbs left on the cutting board after a knife has been taken to it.  Another best part is that this is a super easy meal to prepare if you've got the right tools: a food processor, 1 pot, an immersion blender, and individual gratin dishes.  (For those last two, a conventional blender and one 8"  shallow casserole dish will work, too ;~)


Read on to see the recipe for this creamy, sophisticated yet simple dish.

Ingredients:

1 lg cauliflower (~2 to 2-1/2lbs), cored, stemmed, and cut into 1" florets (save the core and stems)
kosher salt & 1 tsp white wine vinegar for blanching the cauli
1TB unsalted butter
2TB minced shallot
2 cloves garlic, minced
herbs: bay leaf, thyme sprig, parsley sprig
freshly ground bk pepper
1c leftover blanching water (see below)
pinch of curry powder
1c heavy cream
1/2tsp prepared horseradish
freshly ground nutmeg
1c freshly grated french cow's milk cheese (gruyere, comte, emmentaler...)
panko breadcrumbs

Start a large pot of water for boiling (for blanching the cauli).

Break the cauliflower down into 1" florets.  Use a paring knife and take your time.  Quality over speed is in order here.  Besides, you want as much of those stems as possible.  If your main stem has a thick, fibrous outer layer, remove that, but otherwise keep it all.  When you've accumulated the core and stems, chop 'em into rough chunks and then process until minced--almost pureed, even.  Hopefully you'll end up with ~1c of minced stem/core; if not, add some of the florets to your processor to achieve this.  Set aside.

While you're waiting for your water to boil, prep your shallot and garlic.

Next, salt your boiling water--a good Tbsp--and add the 1 tsp vinegar (the acid from the vinegar, Chef Keller explains, keeps cauli white).  Drop your prepped florets in, give 'em 2 or 3 minutes, them remove with a slotted spoon and put in a large bowl (this bowl is later going to receive sauce, so be sure to pick a large bowl).  Save 1 cup of the blanching water and set aside.  Ditch the rest of the water.

In that same pot, saute the shallot in the butter, slowly, gently, 3 or 4 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and aromatic.  Add the bay leaf, thyme sprig and parsley sprig, pressing each into the buttery shallots.  Check for seasoning (be mindful that salted blanching water is going to be added eventually).

Add the minced cauliflower stems/core to the shallots, along with the 1c of blanching water, and cook gently for 6 or 7 minutes until the minced cauli is tender and much of the liquid has evaporated (concentrating your flavor base while doing so!).  Add additional water sparingly to the pot if the cauli isn't tender by this point.
Add the pinch of curry powder to this shallot/cauli mixture, stir 'til aromatic, then add your cream.  Simmer for a couple of minutes.  Remove from the heat, discard the herbs, and cool for a few minutes.

Crank your oven to 450.

Add the 1/2 tsp horseradish to the pot, then puree it all with your immersion blender (or transfer everything to a regular blender).

Toss the florets with this sauce, scraping every last drop of sauce into them, and season with the nutmeg, and s&p if needed.  Spoon into gratin dishes, or the shallow casserole, sprinkle amply with the grated cheese and panko over the top(s), and bake for 15-20 minutes until bubbling.  If you have a solid oven, then the tops should brown without having to resort to the broiler, but use the broiler for a couple of minutes if needed.  Serve with salad and fresh, whole-grain bread.

For our salad we used some grilled artichoke hearts and marinated cremini mushrooms, and a chopped tomato (the first tomato I've purchased in months, it feels like).  Tossed everything in some of the vinaigrette that the mushrooms and chokes came in.  Added a slice or two of freshly baked whole grain Tuscan bread, and voila, another YUM!)

A nice glass of 2008 Cedarville Viognier wine (a really, really floral wine) that we brought back from Amador accompanied dinner.  It was luscious with the gratin (due to my use of the French emmentaler cheese), but a bit teased by the mushrooms and artichokes in my salad.  I think next time a pinot noir will be in order for the salad, and a spicier dish for the Voignier.


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